c'est très bien de vouloir du matériel de qualite et de budgétiser à l'avance....

mais 5/6 ans
il y a des solutions très bien, qui t'évitent les durites, avec une simple plaque sandwich...et sans support d'admission, l'accès au filtre est trèèès facile en plus !

Sinon, il y a aussi ça :



Quoique un poil chargé à mon avis...

T'as trouvé ça où ? c'est du fait maison ?

Adds Oil Temp, AFR and Boost Gauges plus Knock, Oil Press and WI lights.

Details:
Oil and water temp gauges - linear modified
Oil Pressure gauge - stripped, grease removed and rewound
Oil pressure sensor - VDO 0-80psi sender plus idiot light
AFR - Analog AEM
Boost - stripped Autometer
Check Engine, Seatbelt, Brake etc Lights - All LED
Backlighting - LED, dimmable
Gauge pointer lighting - LED, colour change on warn for tach, temps, oil, AFR and fuel.

The electrical part is pretty simple if you can solder. I left the circuit panel in place so I could use the stock connectors which also gave me a place to connect my wires to run to the repositioned gauges. The LEDs are done the same way. One of my problems was using a US spec cluster for my Canadian spec car - until I realised the DRL connection was messing me up. The only other problem was using LED for the airbag and brake indicators; LED don't draw enough current to trip the electronics in the car so I added a resistor load to fix that.

There is a piece of 1/4" clear Lexan. The backlight LED are embedded into the Lexan with foil tape over the end to prevent light from shining through the faceplate and to reflect light back into the lexan. I made sure that the LEDs were away from any white or coloured portions of the faceplate. The light exiting through the faceplate is reflected and refracted through the Lexan.

The faceplate was made using Adobe Illustrator using the methods detailed at revlimiter.net. The (orange) liquid mask you refer to is simply permanent marker applied to both sides of a piece of clear acetate (both sides to improve colour density). The faceplate consists of three layers. The viewed layer is laser printable clear acetate, the middle layer is white paper and the bottom layer is the clear acetate with orange marker. The blue and red markings are just more marker on the paper layer.

The printer used was a HP1012, plain old black and white. I could not find any acetate bigger than letter size (legal would have been perfect) so there is a join in the visible layer. between tach and speedo Further, the feed accuracy of the printer means that paper and acetate do not exactly scale leading to a second join (near the boost gauge) to get paper and acetate to align.

t's been a couple of years and an intermediate version so I figured it time I posted up a pic of the current version 3