Et c'est là que l'on comprend que sans data, on ne peut pas se prononcer tout simplement

Par exemple, les Bilstein de NB 10 AE peuvent tout à fait convenablement s’accommoder de ressort 2X plus raide que d'origine et qui rabaissent de 1", (oui les ressort Flyin Miata)
Par différence on comprend que les ressorts Eibach et H&R qui sont moins raides que les FM (pour un rabaissement egal voir supérieur ) seront trop retenus par les Bilstein...

Ce qu'il faut retenir c'est qu'il n'y a pas de regle, de ça + ça =ça , si il n'y a pas un minimum de data derrière et de traitement de l'info pour obtenir les renseignements valables (feuille de calcul) c'est du vent...

Après il est difficile d'avoir certaine infos, j'ai du vraiment insister très courtoisement avec les gars de Bilstein pour avoir des infos éparses sur les amortos de CRX ...., H&R nickel l'info direct, facielement, les info chassis (levier de suspension, répartition des masses, dimensions barres stab) et feuille de calculs gentillement partagé par nos amis geek ricains.

Tu veux dire que le B6 monté d'origine sur la NB 10 AE est spécifique à cette voiture ?

D'ailleurs Fred, je sais pas si tu l'avais vu celle-là, ça pourrait t'intéresser :

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=606906

Stable et même un peu typé sport (tape cul sur des bosses).

Stable et même un peu typé sport (tape cul sur des bosses).

Dans ma phrase



Il n'est pas indiqué que je suis en buté car tel n'est pas le cas. Je pense que les ressorts sont plus durs, ce qui amène cette perception de "tape cul".

I think there's a lot of misunderstanding about the bumpstops on the ND. People seem to be imagining them as short and hard stops that the ND "crashes onto" when the suspension hits a big bump.

This is not true at all. The stock bumpstops for the ND are LONG and SOFT. Or, at least, their initial engagement is soft. And they become progressively stiffer as they get squished, eventually applying more of the force than the main springs themselves.

But the main thing to understand about them is that they engage very early in the suspension travel, especially if the car has been lowered at all. The bumpstops are not far away when the car is sitting at rest. When you're turning with any aggression at all, you're into the bumpstops essentially the whole time. And this is by design.

The bumpstops are not just a failsafe in the stock ND suspension. They function as secondary springs. They engage smoothly, and I don't think most drivers can actually feel their point of engagement (I'm pretty good at this, and I can't myself). They have the effect of making the springs functionally progressive.

This gives the ND a relatively gentle ride most of the time (which is why the main springs are so soft) but also lets it have stiff suspension when maneuvering aggressively (which is coming from the bumpstops). It's almost having cake and eating it, too. Almost.

The problem is that nonlinear springs make the behavior of the suspension more complex and harder to predict and tune. To be sure, nonlinear spring behavior can be good. There are some nice effects that can be tuned in with it. But linear springs have more consistent behavior and are a lot easier to drive on the edge for most drivers.

Goodwin's approach puts in stiffer springs and shorter and stiffer bumpstops. The idea is to make the suspension behavior linear and relegate the bumpstops to failsafe duty, engaging only when hitting big bumps (or the bottom of the Corkscrew).

The stiffer springs can also be combined with the long OEM bumpstops, and this will produce a curve which is somewhere in between. The stiffer springs will make the curve more linear'ish.

Linear vs progressive behavior and bumpstop tuning is a driver preference kind of thing, so I think this is why Goodwin calls the use of their shortened bumpstops when installing their Roadstersport springs optional.

I've done a lot of experimentation at both ends of this, and have concluded at least for myself that I get better results with linear. I have actually won both ways, but Goodwin's shortened bumpstops have produced consistently better finishes, and the car is easier to drive.

D'où l'importance de la géo pour bien exploiter les pneus pour son usage et les routes pratiquées.
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