Front Springs Rate: 6kg/mm (Previous 7kg/mm)
Front Damper Travel: 135mm (Previous 125mm)
Ride Height Range: 12.5" to 14.5" => 31,75cm à 36,83cm

Rear Springs Rate: 5kg/mm
Rear Damper Travel: 115mm
Ride Height range: 12.75" to 14.0" => 32,39cm à 35,56cm

@MHi as-tu pu demander le rabaissement mini que l'on devait mettre sur Meisterr ?

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=718914

You can reach stock height with the standard ZetaCRD on the tallest adjustment.

(...)

There should be 25mm in the lower bracket, the spy hole helps you to see where the bottom of the damper are.

There are 2 version of the ZetaCRD:
The earlier version was the setup we have been using for a long time. They are more optimised for customers wanting to go low.
The current version has been adjusted with more damper travel. They provide a taller ride height adjustment range.

The current version is the setup that you should be able to get close to OEM ride height.
You can tell by looking at the front top mount.
The current version have an extended front top mount, where the earlier version does not.

If you have the current version, you should get at least with 1/2" of the OEM ride height at the tallest setting using the lower bracket.
Then if you need a bit more you can use the springs platform just to push up about 10mm to 15mm more.

Jerrick

If your main usage are just driving enjoyment, then the ZetaCRD or GT1 would be my choice of suspension.
The 6/5 springs rate is right for you usage.

A-arm suspension: cannot be less than 25mm.
MacPherson suspension: cannot be less than 80mm

This is Jerrick from MeisterR, so I will add in some official words on this from MeisterR.

1/ MeisterR coilovers are our own design, research and developed at our UK workshop located at Rayne. (15 minutes from London Stansted Airport if anyone wants to visit).
Our damper valving are designed by MeisterR, so it is unique and you will not find the same from any other brands.
Here is a copy of our ZetaCRD dyno in case anyone wants to see it. http://www.meisterr.co.uk/Pics/Post/Dyn ... Ddyno2.png
What that mean is even if you were to purchase a set of suspension from the same production factory that made the MeisterR coilovers, the specification will be completely different as MeisterR specification are not off the shelf.

2/ MeisterR damper are rebuildable, they are not "sealed" dampers.
The reason we don't rebuild ZetaCRD dampers is because the cost of labour on opening a damper approach around $100, and that is not including any parts you need to replace such as a scored / bent damper rod.
Since $150 or so will get you a brand new damper unit, it makes the damper uneconomical to repair because it would cost you more in the end to rebuild the damper unit than to replace it.
But the dampers are rebuildable if you want to pay the money, we won't stop you and have all he ability to do so at our USA or UK workshop... it is just not worth it in my opinion.

3/ MeisterR ZetaCRD are designed to be the best suspension in it's price bracket, and that is really the main point.
You can pay more money for more advance suspension from other manufacturer, but that goes onto custom build dampers price bracket.
MeisterR GT1 / ClubRace GT1 are our custom build dampers designed to compete within that category, using precision CNC made internals that are made in house at our UK workshop.
So it isn't quite fair to compare MeisterR ZetaCRD ( $995 shipped ) to the like of XIDA GS ( $1,805 shipped to TX ) and Ohlins DFV (Over $2,000).
These are completely different product, designed for different price range, with customer having different expectation.

MeisterR isn't a new company, we have been in operation for over 10 years.
We have continue to evolve over these 10 years developing our product range.
A few of our parts have copyright and patent pending status in the UK, we don't just buy something off the shelf, stick a new label on it, and call it our own.
We also deal with more than Miata, and have racing success from Drifting to Time Attacks.
I do understand that some customer want to purchase from supplier with pedigree and history, and that is fine.
Suspension is a personal preference and there are many consideration (both objective and subjective) when choosing the right suspension for yourself.
I don't mind if some customer pick other brands over MeisterR, I actually recommend competition's product more than once when I feel their product suit the customer's need better.
What I hate the most is for a customer to spend their hard earn money, just to later regret because they made an uninformed decision.
I said it before that I rather lose a sale, then to sell something to a customer that they will hate, as nothing kills a passion faster then feeling rip off.
That is my 2 cents, I hope it helps.
If anyone got any questions, please feel free to let me know.
Jerrick

Sinon j'ai regardé du côté de chez Olhins et la gamme pour MX5 est la Road&Track
https://www.ohlins.com/products/automot ... rands=5463

Sur une NC les raideurs de ressort AV/AR sont 70N/mm et 40N/mm
Et les réglages en hauteur sont AV: -50mm à -20mm et AR -50mm à -20mm

https://world.ohlins.com/app/uploads/do ... ASMI30.pdf


@Andr006 on ne sait pas encore et c'est vrai que si au bout de 10kkm tu dois en changer ça ne sera pas rentable!

@Jaguar
Ce que tu décris ressemble à un déphasage entre les réactions de l'arrière et de l'avant. Tu es sur une raideur de ressort de combien déjà ? 7/5 ?
Personnellement je commencerai à remettre le "pitch" de la voiture d'origine.
C'est à dire à garder la même inclinaison en ° AV/AR que la voiture d'origine. Donc ça veut dire conserver le même delta de hauteur de caisse (ou hauteur des passages de roue).

Si tu changes ce paramètres tu changes très fortement toute la dynamique du véhicule à commencer par les transfert de masse, donc tu peux créer un désaccord (c'est ce que tu semble décrire) entre les réactions des suspensions AV et AR.

Si ça c'est bon il faut ensuite que tu ajustes les clics hydraulique entre AV et AR au neutre pour vérifier que c'est OK.

Enfin la géométrie en tout dernier. Mais je n'y crois pas car pour avoir passer des voitures avant/après chez un ami garagiste qui s'y connait vraiment, le rabaissement ne change pas la géométrie tant que tu estes dans des rabaissement classiques genre -20mm et pas -50mm.