Fixer le tube en dur sur la traverse, c'est à dire ?
Mon plan c'était d'envoyer le proto à Ozcan pour qu'il nous fasse un jolie montage

Une durite bien flexible ça serait pas mal oui, mais je vois pas ce qu'on pourrait utiliser (à part un boa neoprene mais j'ai peur que ça soit trop souple)

A mon avis, une simple durite suffirait à palier au problème de rigidité trop importante

A mon avis, c'est une zone en amont radia donc c'est une zone idéale.

J'étais parti sur 62mm intérieur et 70mm extérieur mais c'est un peu trop proche du capot.
Je vais modifier en 62-68 tout en gardant 70 aux extrémités (pour utiliser des durites de 70mm).

Alors justement en parlant de bouche du pare-chocs, est-ce que quelqu'un sait si le flux d'air est important sur les cotés ? Ou ça crée une zone basse pression ?

Quitte à remodeliser la pièce, tu peux ajouter un petit gousset juste au dessus de la bride pour le filtre, un petit plat en acier ou alu qui vient de fixer dessus et sur la traverse, ça reprendra la charge verticale tout en laissant un peu de mou latéralement !

So here is what you need to make one of these. It is very simple. If you have the stock airbox, ecu, and MAF this is what you will need to put this CAI together. 4-6HP some say. Others can't stop telling you otherwise.
You will love it and I highly recommend it!

The tube is acquired by having it 3d printed. Alec designed this and licensed it so that nobody can just setup shop and start pumping these out. You have to take the time to go and get it made. There are places on the internet that do this for you. You need the design file that Alec created from his website at Cold Air Intake. The file is called release_1piece.STL. Once you have that file you can start.

There are places on-line that assist people like us in getting things 3d printed. They take the file and find the printer closest to you to do the work. They give you a price and off you go, $80-$100 is what you should expect for the tube to be printed.

The material I used and suggest is a NYLON made by Universal Fibers (A government/military contractor) under the brand of Breathe 3DP Phoenix
The printing Hub I used is 3dhubs.com
The provider I used from 3Dhubs is SOC3D's Hub

1. The intake tube. Go to 3dhubs.com and get started. You will need the file now. Go through the steps and get one made. You have all of the information you need. I can't help you from this point on. Put on big boy pants and ask the man at the counter for help. It won't hurt and is super easy.

2. Now you need the rest of the stuff. Here it is.

1 x 2.5" to 2.75" 45 degree silicone reducer elbow - choose your color - https://www.siliconeintakes.com/
1 x 2.5" to 2.75" 90 degree silicone reducer elbow - choose your color - https://www.siliconeintakes.com/
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.5" Silicone Parts - https://www.siliconeintakes.com/
2 x T-Bolt Clamp for 2.75" Silicone Parts - https://www.siliconeintakes.com/
1 x Silicone Port System for IACV - Silicone Port System
1 x 3/8" fitting for crankcase intake - choose your color - Through Hull Jet Ski Water Bypass Fitting Bilge 3/8 - Straight Thru | eBay
1 x K&N RU-5090 Air Filter - Includes clamp to attach to 3d printed tube - Amazon.com
1 x 90 degree 1/2" NPT to 3/4" hose barb - white plastic - Home depot plumbing isle - $3
1 x 1"x2" 95cm long wood stick for new hood prop. - Home Depot
Wire 18awg to extend MAF. I used about 30 feet and went the long way back around the firewall.
Solder for MAF harness
Loom for MAF have
Heat Shrinkwrap for MAF harness
zip ties for MAF harness

3. Put it together.

4. Enjoy!

DONE!