Water, as a cooling medium (or antifreeze mix) will continue to hold a little bit of the heat transferred to it and over running time it accumulates to a point and then stabilizes. The intake air passing through the cooler jacket won't get cooler than that static temperature. Underhood temps play a role in this, as evidenced by how much heat accumulates in the coolant when you shut the engine down after a run on a hot day. Heatsoak. You can decrease the extent of this by using as large a volume of coolant as possible, but then you have a weight gain. You also want the largest/most efficient heat exchanger that's practical, and move the coolant quickly enough that it doesn't accumulate a lot of heat at one time. Mine works well for me in a street application, because I'm not in continuous boost for long periods of time, like a track car might be. There are packaging advantages to air/water, not the least of which is maintaining a short intake tract, which lessens boost drop between the compressor and manifold. It's a give-and-take proposition.

Ca te donne une idée de la capacité calorifique du LDR!!! Après tu peux tourner avec de l'ED si il fait pas trop froid et si tu n'as pas de risque de corrosion sur ton circuit d'eau.